Beijing XII : Outlaws of the Marsh

Shopping.

That's my mission here in Beijing. And shopping's what the discerning locals have been doing in Dazhalan ever since the early Qing Dynasty. Home to over 30 century-old firms and stores -such as Tongrentang, Neiliansheng, Duyichu, Ruifuxiang, and Liubiju - Dazhalan has long been the traditional commercial district in Beijing. So obviously I had to follow the trendsetters - despite being several centuries late.

Unfortunately - just like the rest of downtown Beijing, the wrecking ball reached that hutong before me. Fortunately it's only on renovation so it's all good.

And hey, at least the new refurbished buildings are clear of grime and cobwebs.


Come shop at Dazhalan!
Dazhalan dates back to 1488 during the Ming Dynasty when a curfew was imposed on the entire city of Beijing. In order to ward off thieves, many fence rails were set up at entrances to streets and lanes under the Imperial Court's edict. The area was originally known as Langfang Sitiao but was changed to Dazhalan meaning 'great fence' due to the specially made and well-preserved fence rails.

Instead of fence rails of course, these days they have shiny metal counters and garish neon lights in abundance. Even their age-old pharmacy Tongrentang has abandoned musty medicine cabinets and wizened medicine men in a desperate bid to modernize.

Though I wonder why.

Instead of just going for what's shiny and new, what their homegrown stores need is serious rebranding. And that certainly doesn't mean tossing aside cherished traditions for tacky white coats and tracklighting.

Well maybe throw in some spellcheck and grammar editing for their brochures.

And please. No more flashing neon lights.